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BlackwaterInns

Page history last edited by PBworks 15 years, 12 months ago

THE EXETER ROAD

 

The Blackwater Inns

 

Considering in retrospect the competition from the newly erected Camberley inns and beerhouses, and with the evidence that the White Lyon, Hartfordbridge had the contract for the Royal Mail, it seems probable that the heyday of the Blackwater inns was in the 200 years before 1800. Then coaches covered distances between inns more slowly. Before the spread of the turnpike roads travel was painfully slow. So any village with inns was likely to do a roaring trade providing horse shoeing, carriage repairs, food, lodging, and of course beer and wine.

 

The earliest reference to the Red Lion is in the parish records for 1639. Joseph Glanville son of Robt Glanville died at the Red Lyon Inn at Blackwater travelling Homewards towards Devon: was buried Novr ye 15th. The Swan too is mentioned in the early parish records. In the 18th century, and possibly before, the Red Lion was owned by the owners of Hall Place, the major estate in Yateley village. The "Salisbury Journal" of 11 Dec 1809 advertised the Red Lion would be sold with Lord Arundell's other estates in Yateley at an auction to be held at Mr Demezy's the White Lion Inn, at Hartfordbridge on 1 Feb 1810. The short description gives us a good idea of it:

Lot 2: A Copyhold Estate, consisting of a capital and good accustomed Inn, the RED LION, with capacious Stabling and Outbuildings and 23A 0R 30P. (more or less) of good Land adjoining, advantageously situated in the great western road at Blackwater, in the parish of Yately, about 32 miles from London; and now in the occupation of Mr. Hart.

 

The sale particulars of the Swan Inn, Blackwater, show it had stabling for 50 horses and its own brewery. That brewery was still operating as the Royal Swan Brewery until 1881, employing four men.

 

We have little information for the White Hart before 1790 when it was clearly playing its full part in the bustling commercial centre of Blackwater. Owned by Thomas Liley, who died in 1792, it was run for a time by his executor, and then by his second son William and his wife until 1836.

 

From "The Exeter Road" by Charles G. Harper, Chapman and Hall, London 1899:

Blackwater until recently possessed a picturesque old coaching inn, the "White Hart", which has unhappily been rebuilt. But it remains, as ever, a village of old inns. Climbing out of its one street we come to a wild and peculiarly unprepossessing tableland known as Hartford Bridge Flats.

To a lover of scenery this is a quite detestable piece of road, but the old coachmen simply revelled in it, for here was the best stretch of galloping ground in England, and they "sprang" their horses over it for all they were worth, through Hartley Row and Hook, and well on towards Basingstoke.

The famous (or infamous let us rather call them) Hartford Bridge Flats are fully as dreary as any desolate Californian mining flats of which Bret Harte has written so eloquently. Salisbury Plain itself, save that the Plain is more extensive, is no worse place to be overtaken by bad weather. Excessively bleak and barren, the Flats are well named, for they stretch absolutely flat for four miles: a black, open, unsheltered heath, with nothing but stunted gorse bushes for miles on either side, and the distant horizon closed in by the solemn battalions of sinister-looking pine woods. The road runs, a straight and sandy strip, through the midst of this wilderness, unfenced, its monotony relieved only by a group of ragged firs about half-way. The cyclist who toils along these miles against a head wind is as unlikely to forget Hartford Bridge Flats as were the unfortunate "outsides" on the coaches when rain or storm made the passage miserable.

Hartford Bridge, at the foot of the hill below this nightmare country, is a pretty hamlet of yellow sand and pine-woods, sand-martins and rabbits uncountable. The place is interesting and unspoiled, because its development was suddenly arrested when the Exeter Road became deserted for the railway in the early '40's; and so it remains, in essentials, a veritable old hamlet of the coaching days. Even more eloquent of old times is the long, long street of Hartford Row which adjoins. Hartley Row was absolutely called into existence by the demand in the old days of road travel for stabling, inns, and refreshments, and is one of the most thoroughly representative of such roadside settlements. Half a mile to the south of the great highway is the parent village of Hartley Wintney, unknown to and undreamt of by travellers in those times, and probably much the same as it was in the Middle Ages. The well-named "Row," on the other hand, sprang up, grew lengthy, and flourished exceedingly during the sixty years of coaching prosperity, and then, at a stroke, was ruined.

 

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Original page written by P J Tipton for the Yateley Society's 1997 Exhibition: Inns, Alehouses & Maltsters

Additional research by Richard Johnston & Elizabeth Tipton

Original page may now have been revised to include the Society's latest Research

(c)The Yateley Society, 1997 & 2008

 

Page Exhib.1997.11

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